Saturday, May 30, 2015

When In Danang: Part Eight

When in Danag, play with babies. 

Now granted, this isn't the easiest task to accomplish. You will definitely need to track down a suitable child and gain her parents' approval before diving in. 

Lucky for me, my daughter's Vietnamese host family happens to have a seven-month-old on hand, and she is a perfect specimen. 

Meet Ivy.

Why yes, I did steal this photo off my daughter's Snapchat. Thanks, Phronky

She is as sweet, chubby and smart a baby as you could ever hope to find. 

And as happy as the day is long. 

Her smiles are to die for, and when her little Asian face lights up with glee, I am mesmerized. I could spend hours with Ivy - singing, laughing, and watching her romp around on her grandparents' bed. 

Oh wait. I have definitely done that. 

But why not? Babies speak a universal language of love and with my little friend, I experience none of the culture awkwardness or language gaps that we adults often struggle to cross. Ivy and I understand each other perfectly, and find nothing but sheer joy in our friendship. 

When in Danang, play with babies. 

* * * * *

Here are my other top ten tips for getting to know the sweet little city of Danang, Vietnam:

                    One | Ride across the bridges
                    Two | Hang out in coffee shops
                    Three | Play at the beach
                    Four | Stroll along the river after dark
                    Five | Fuel your creativity
                    Six | Go see the sunrise
                    Seven | Spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian
                    Nine | Get your nails done

Thursday, May 28, 2015

When In Danang: Part Seven

When in Danang, spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian.

Take the beach road south out of Danang, and cruise south along the South China Sea for a half hour or so. 

You'll be hot, sweaty and hungry, and just as you roll into town, you'll be ready for lunch. Hoi An is a tourist town, chock full of Westerners on holiday, and the options are many. 


^ May I recommend the Dingo Diner? The shop is full of Aussies and hearty Western fare. You will leave with your strength restored. 

Now off to the village proper, with its welcoming walkways, hawk-eyed shopkeepers and never-ending supply of yellow buildings under the blazing blue sky. 


If you're like me, you'll need to stop for water every fifteen minutes. 


^ No exaggeration. The heat was insane. 


^ But wander on you must, because there are endless streets to explore and countless sights to see. 


^ And of course, you might even shop. 

I bought this coconut bowl. I pondered the purchase for literally a full year - the little darling caught my eye on last year's trip - and I finally pulled the trigger. Only after I parted with my 50,000 VND did I realize that I had obsessed for one year over a bowl that cost less than one dollar. 

I had to laugh at myself over that one. 


Soon enough, the grinding heat and overwhelming charm of Hoi An will wear you out. 

Wearily but with warm regard, you will say your farewells and head back toward the motorbikes. 


^ But never fear. There's always time for one last photo. 

When in Danang, spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian. 

* * * * *

Here are my other top ten tips for getting to know the sweet little city of Danang, Vietnam:

                    One | Ride across the bridges
                    Two | Hang out in coffee shops
                    Three | Play at the beach
                    Four | Stroll along the river after dark
                    Five | Fuel your creativity
                    Six | Go see the sunrise
                    Eight | Play with babies
                    Nine | Get your nails done

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

My Favorite Weapon

In the past six weeks, I've traveled almost all the way around the world. 

I've spent almost all that time in hundred degree-plus heat.
I've eaten plane food, street food, fast food, and meals prepared within an orphanage's budget. 
I've jet-lagged my way through more time zones than I can count.
And I somehow managed to drive over 2000 miles in 72 hours. 

And so far - knock on wood - I've been healthy, hale, and feeling great. Not a single digestive upset, ill-timed nap, dehydration, or bad case of the sleepiers has plagued me. I've managed to power through, bounce back, and roll with the changes that such relentless travel requires. 

I'll be honest. I could never have pulled this off on my own power alone. 

I owe this remarkably successful season of travel to the miracle of Coca Cola. 


Though I almost never drink Coke at home, I swear by this stuff when I'm traveling. 

A chilled can poured over ice, taken twice daily, sets me straight and chases the demons away. When it comes to surviving and thriving the demands of extreme travel, Coke is my favorite weapon. 

When In Danang: Part Six

When in Danang, go see the sunrise.

You'll need about twenty minutes to drive out to the viewpoint on Monkey Mountain 

And since the sun will officially make her appearance at 5:14 am, that means rolling out of bed around 4:30 and driving through the quiet streets of the city, and then the rolling hills and twisting curves around the base of the mountain. 

This journey is not for the faint of heart. 

But in my opinion, the results are well worth the effort. 

See for yourself. 


When in Danang, go see the sunrise. 

* * * * *

Here are my other top ten tips for getting to know the sweet little city of Danang, Vietnam:

                    One | Ride across the bridges
                    Two | Hang out in coffee shops
                    Three | Play at the beach
                    Four | Stroll along the river after dark
                    Five | Fuel your creativity
                    Seven | Spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian
                    Eight | Play with babies
                    Nine | Get your nails done

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

When In Danang: Part Five

When in Danang, fuel your creativity.

There are some insanely imaginative souls in this city. Whether the ideas are born from living in small spaces, making the most of a hard-earned dong, or the simply the desire to embrace innovation, I find cleverness in every corner. 

Case in point: we popped into this restaurant to share a pair of post-beach cheeseburgers. Delicious as they were, I found myself drooling over this amazing herringbone wall. The wood is nothing more than raw lumber stripped directly from pallets and nailed to the wall. 

I am obsessed. I want to build this in my house right now. 

And while the wine storage wall, ceiling structure, and green bottle arrangement are less applicable to my home, I take from them an inspiration to look at all things in my life - tangible and intangible - with a fresh eye and imagine what else they might become. 

As much as I'm enjoying my time here, these energizing moments fill me with ideas that I can't wait to act upon when I get back home. 


When in Danang, fuel your creativity. 

* * * * *

Here are my other top ten tips for getting to know the sweet little city of Danang, Vietnam:

                    One | Ride across the bridges
                    Two | Hang out in coffee shops
                    Three | Play at the beach
                    Four | Stroll along the river after dark
                    Six | Go see the sunrise
                    Seven | Spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian
                    Eight | Play with babies
                    Nine | Get your nails done

Monday, May 25, 2015

When In Danang: Part Four

When in Danang, stroll along the river after dark. 

The Han River flows through the city of Danang. 

Bach Dang Boulevard stretches broad and wide along its bank; between the asphalt and water, a comfortable walkway makes space for all the Vietnamese who have come spilling out of their overheated homes to enjoy the relatively cooling breezes of the evening. 

Colorful lights shine all around. The bridges are masterpieces of sparkle and shape, their reflections on the water multiply the effect. 

And I personally find that the entire experience is enhanced with a dish of ice cream from the Baskin-Robbins across the street. 


When in Danang, stroll along the river after dark. 

* * * * *

Here are my other top ten tips for getting to know the sweet little city of Danang, Vietnam:

                    One | Ride across the bridges
                    Two | Hang out in coffee shops
                    Three | Play at the beach
                    Five | Fuel your creativity
                    Six | Go see the sunrise
                    Seven | Spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian
                    Eight | Play with babies
                    Nine | Get your nails done

Sunday, May 24, 2015

When In Danang: Part Three

When in Danang, play at the beach.

Now, full confession. 

By "play," I mostly mean "lollygag around on a chaise lounge under an adorable tiki hut-style umbrella, drink limitless water and Coke, soak up the scenery and chitchat in between naps."


But I also mean, "bob around for hours on end in the soothing waves of the South China Sea."

Because that's my most favorite of all. 


When in Danang, play at the beach. 

* * * * *

Here are my other top ten tips for getting to know the sweet little city of Danang, Vietnam:

                    One | Ride across the bridges
                    Two | Hang out in coffee shops
                    Four | Stroll along the river after dark
                    Five | Fuel your creativity
                    Six | Go see the sunrise
                    Seven | Spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian
                    Eight | Play with babies
                    Nine | Get your nails done

Saturday, May 23, 2015

When In Danang: Part Two

When in Danang, hang out in coffee shops.

The entrepreneurs of this middle sized Vietnamese town have, strangely enough, perfected the art of the hipster cafe. Keeping the menu focused on the basics - coffee, tea, a few fruity blends, and a short sample of baked goods - the owners have poured out the balance of their creative energies toward interior design. 

If there was ever any doubt that Pinterest is a global phenomenon, let these shops demonstrate the truth. Every mid-century table leg, industrial-chic light fixture, vignette of vintage accessories and sweetly styled succulent screams post-millennial popularity, and as a fan of the same trends, I find endless delight in soaking up these details  

I've been to half a dozen different coffee shops here in Danag; this one, called Wonderlust, is no more or less charming than all the others. Focused on a crisp Scandinavian palette of blacks and whites, this upstairs lounge is a perfect haven of light, life and visual delight.

I don't drink the coffee or the tea, but I can say with certainty that the blended mango is a dream. 


When in Danang, hang out in the coffee shops. 

* * * * *

Here are my other top ten tips for getting to know the sweet little city of Danang, Vietnam:

                    One | Ride across the bridges
                    Three | Play at the beach
                    Four | Stroll along the river after dark
                    Five | Fuel your creativity
                    Six | Go see the sunrise
                    Seven | Spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian
                    Eight | Play with babies
                    Nine | Get your nails done

Friday, May 22, 2015

When In Danang: Part One

When in Danang, ride across the bridges.

The Han River slices the city in half, but no worries. There are at least four bridges that connect the two halves and I never tire of zooming back and forth across them. 

On our first full day in Vietnam, we took a long, rambling ride around the city and crossed three: 

the Han Bridge, 
the so-called Dragon Bridge which literally has a bright yellow metal sculpture of a dragon running down the middle of the span
and this one, which we call the bridge to Monkey Mountain. 

And on this first full day of our visit - a very hot day indeed - we drove to the highest point of the span, pulled our motorbikes over to the side, and took a few moments to drink in our surroundings. 


When in Danang, ride across the bridges. 

* * * * *

Here are my other top ten tips for getting to know the sweet little city of Danang, Vietnam:

                    Two | Hang out in coffee shops
                    Three | Play at the beach
                    Four | Stroll along the river after dark
                    Five | Fuel your creativity
                    Six | Go see the sunrise
                    Seven | Spend an afternoon wandering in Hoian
                    Eight | Play with babies
                    Nine | Get your nails done

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Scenes From An International Getaway

I had every intention of visiting my third-born this summer. 

When she committed to teaching English to children in Danang, Vietnam, I promised to come visit her every year. And I am definitely a mom of my word. 

And two of my other daughters planned to travel with me. Cool. Definitely looking forward to the trip 

I was thinking oh going for two weeks in July. Possibly June. 

But while I was across the planet in Hyderabad, reading Go, Dog. Go! and making puzzles with the Indian princesses, my daughters figured out that the Vietnam trip needed to happen sooner. 

My second-born bought our tickets and applied for our visas. 
My third-born reserved our hotel room and scrounged us up some motorbikes. 
My fourth-born? Well, she took her finals and packed up her dorm room. 

And that's how I found myself on a plane bound for Asia just five days after flying home from India.  


^ Mount Ranier's handsome face wishes us safe travels on a cloudy Seattle morning. 


^ While passing through customs at LAX on my way into the country last week, I'd noticed a fascinating web of colored string overhead as I marched along a corridor. I wanted to stop for a photo, but since the surrounding crowds would have surely trampled me underfoot, I relented. 

Imagine my surprise when I saw the very same colorful installation from a different vantage point just a few days later. While awaiting our big flight across the Pacific, I looked up and saw the ceiling of that incoming passageway directly above my outgoing gate. 

This time, I didn't skip a beat before snapping off some photos. 


^ A caviar and champagne bar at the airport? Umm, no thanks, Los Angeles. That's a bit excessive for me. But my eyeballs drank up those copper spheres and delicate chaniliers against that turquoise paneled wall. Yum. 


This installation featured a changing display of panels that worked together to create a single moving image. Each overall effect featured a different international destination: my mind has lost track of the first two inspirations, but that jungle motif represented my very own Kuala Lumpur so, you know, that was pretty cool. 


^ No, this was not my plane. I flew Singapore Airlines. But my Airbus 380 was jus as breath-taking as this magnificent beast and I never tire of such a sight. 


^ McDonalds in Singapore. These cute little private booths provided a bit more privacy than Asia typically affords and I was fascinated by their design. 


^ Well, the equipment for the final leg of our journey was humble. And since only maybe 25% of this this tiny plane's seats were filled, I was reminded once again that Danang, Vietnan is not exactly a trendy ecotourist destination. 

But for now, it is the home of my very own third-born and I could not have been more excited to board that tiny plane.